Created 1 months ago
Description
Idle hands end up disassembling pens or clicking loose hardware, which drives everyone else in the room crazy. This is a quiet, self-contained fix.
Four concentric rings spin freely inside each other on tiny internal pivots, printed fully assembled as one part.
Pop it off the plate, snap the axes loose, and you're good.
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Technical views

A fidget slider that prints already assembled, so there is no loose weight to lose and nothing to glue. The slider is captured in an enclosed dovetail track and cannot fall out. It runs 40 mm end to end and clicks at each stop instead of rolling freely. What it does Slides back and forth along a closed track in an 80 x 25 mm body. A small bump on the track floor at each end of travel drops into a dimple under the slider and gives the click. The dovetail profile holds the slider down, so it cannot lift out of the rails. Numbers that matter Body: 80 x 25 x 11 mm, with the slider top reaching 14 mm. Slider: 20 mm long, 18 mm wide cap. Travel: 40 mm. Clearance between slider and track: 0.4 mm per side. This is what lets it move after printing. Click bump: about 0.6 mm of interference against the 0.4 mm gap. Reduce the bump height if it feels too stiff. Printing Print flat, body base down, with no supports needed inside the track. Use a well-tuned printer. A 0.4 mm gap fuses easily if the flow is too high. After printing, work the slider back and forth a few times to break any thin bridging between the slider and the rails. Two colours show as separate parts in the preview, but the print is one job.
A classic three-lobe hand spinner, the shape every desk drawer has seen, rebuilt around a real 608 skate bearing so it spins freely for a long time. The body has a bearing pocket in the centre, a lip underneath to hold it, and weight-saving holes in each lobe. Two small caps press into the bearing's inner ring from either side to make the finger pads. Notes You need: one 608 bearing (8 × 22 × 7 mm). Print: body flat; the two caps print flat-side down beside it. No supports. Assembly: press the bearing into the pocket from the top, then push one cap in from each side until they meet. Tuning: if the bearing is loose or tight in the pocket, adjust the pocket diameter slightly. Remix: the lobe holes can be enlarged to take 608 bearings as extra weights.
What it's for A pizza-shaped fidget spinner that turns freely on a central hub. The pepperoni and olives are separate snap-on toppings, each with a split pin that clicks into a socket. Each topping also has a marked seat in the sauce, so the right position is easy to find. Dimensions Pizza: 62 mm diameter, bumpy crust, sauce with slice grooves Hub: protrudes on both sides, 0.5 mm clearance to the pizza 6 pepperoni: 10 mm, seat 10.6 mm 9 olives: 5 mm, seat 5.6 mm Pins: 3.4 mm split pins into 3.5 mm sockets Print notes Toppings print upside down, pin facing up, no supports needed. Olives are small; a standard 0.4 mm nozzle will soften the details. Pieces print in separate colours and can be mixed freely. Remix ideas Add mushrooms or peppers using the same pin and seat. Change the topping layout by moving the seat positions. Make the hub longer for a better grip.
A five-pocket desk organizer for a 150 × 110 × 120 mm footprint, with "ReplixHD" embossed on a raised front plate. Fit Scissors slot: 40 × 100 mm, 105 mm deep. Pen slot: 40 × 52 mm, 100 mm deep. Pencil slot: 55 × 52 mm, 90 mm deep. Marker slot: 40 × 45 mm, 70 mm deep. Small slot for clips and erasers: 55 × 45 mm, 40 mm deep. Walls are 2.5 mm and dividers are 2.5 mm. The pockets' floors sit above the 3 mm base, which is thicker where the pockets are shallower. Check before printing Pen and pencil slots are about 40–55 mm across, so measure any oversized markers against that. Scissors need a handle under 40 mm wide. Print notes One solid body, with no supports needed. The side ridges are sloped at about 60° so they print cleanly. It does not fit anything that needs a closed lid or a drawer.
A Switch dock lying flat eats shelf space, and a dock stood on its end tips over the first time someone pulls a cable. This stand holds the dock upright in a snug pocket on a wide flat base, and keeps two spare Joy-Con straps in slots in the side walls. What it does Holds the dock on its end so it takes up a footprint of about 142 × 92 mm instead of its full 175 mm length lying down. Front wall is cut down in the middle, so you can grip the dock to lift it out. A 70 mm opening in the back wall lets the power, HDMI and USB cables leave without bending against the stand. Two 4 × 16 mm slots, one in each side wall, hold spare Joy-Con straps. Numbers that decide fit Pocket: 106 mm wide × 52 mm deep, for a dock of roughly 104 × 49 mm. That leaves about 1 mm of play on width and 3 mm on depth. Pocket depth: 44 mm, above a 6 mm base. Overall: 142 × 92 mm base, 50 mm tall. Side walls: 10 mm thick. Front and back walls: 8 mm. Printing Print flat on the base, with no supports needed. Chamfered edges, 1.5 mm. Any common filament works. PETG or PLA is fine for the load. If your dock is a tight fit or loose, adjust the pocket width and depth to match.

A freestanding bedside stand that holds a pair of reading glasses by the bridge, so they rest off the nightstand and out of the bedding. The top of the column is shaped into a rounded nose-bridge saddle, 18 mm wide at the rim, matching the typical lens-to-lens distance on standard reading glasses. A 90 mm round base keeps the stand upright. Specs Overall size: 90 mm diameter x 116 mm tall Base: 90 mm diameter, 5 mm thick, chamfered edge Column: 30 x 22 mm cross-section, rounded vertical corners Top block: 70 x 22 mm, 16 mm tall Saddle: round dip, 18 mm wide at the rim, 8 mm deep Single-piece body, prints base-down with no supports needed Suggested material: PLA or PETG; 3 or more perimeters for a stiff column Use Place on a nightstand and hang the glasses by the bridge across the saddle. The wide top block and 90 mm base keep the stand stable under light glasses.