20mm Threaded Collet Clamp
Created 1 months ago
Remixed 2 times
Description
A heavy-duty threaded collet clamp scaled up to grip 20mm round stock. The two-part design features a slitted threaded body and a matching nut that compresses the taper to lock onto the rod.
Sizing and adjustments
- Bore: 20.2mm (clears a 20mm rod smoothly before compression)
- Threads: M30 with a coarse 2.5mm pitch to survive FDM printing
- Wrench flats: 40mm hex on the body, 42mm on the nut
Both parts print flat on their bases without supports. If the grip is too tight or loose depending on your printer's flow, scaling the nut by 1-2% on the X/Y axes will dial in the friction.
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Elliptical Pedal Insert 48x40 Offset Hole
What it's for Central reinforcement insert for an elliptical trainer pedal, bonded into the damaged opening. Flat top, ribbed underside. Dimensions Base: 48 × 40 × 7 mm, rounded corners Through-hole: 10 mm, centered at 24 mm along the length and 4 mm toward the top edge from the width center 18 mm boss around the hole, 5 ribs to a 3 mm frame Remix ideas Change the hole offset for a different pedal Add or remove ribs Thicken the frame for heavier loads
Кольцо 37/33 мм, толщина 5 мм
Простое круглое кольцо-втулка с ровными торцами. What it's for Прокладка, проставка, втулка или заготовка для переходного кольца. Печатается лёжа, без поддержек. Dimensions Наружный диаметр: 37 мм Внутренний диаметр: 33 мм Толщина стенки: 2 мм Высота (толщина кольца): 5 мм Remix ideas Добавить фаски на кромках. Увеличить внутренний диаметр на 0,2–0,4 мм для посадки с зазором. Добавить выступ или паз для фиксации.
sink drain lever, G*b*rit
A small rectangular block, 26 mm overall, made of a 20 mm body and a 6 mm slotted end section. A narrow slot is cut into the 7.5 mm end face: 1.5 mm wide, running 6 mm into the length and through the full 5 mm height, so it reads as a thin open channel down that end. The slotted 6 mm keeps the full 7.5 mm width, while the rest of the body is narrowed to 6.5 mm, so a 1 mm shoulder sits on each side where the two sections meet. On the two flat side faces — not on the long corners — a straight rectangular step is cut 1 mm deep over the full 5 mm height. It starts 6 mm in from the slotted end and stops 1 mm short of the end face, so the last millimetre keeps its full width and a small square notch is left at the end. There is no angle anywhere in this cut. The far end from the slot is rounded: both vertical corners and the top edge there carry a 2.4 mm radius, blending into one soft rounded end — about as much as a 5 mm tall block can take before the curve meets itself halfway. The outer corners at the slotted end carry a small 0.9 mm radius; the side steps and the notch itself stay sharp, and the remaining top and bottom edges stay square. It works as a spacer, shim or register that a thin rib or plate edge drops into, with the side step giving that end a shoulder to seat against. Starting values Overall length: 26 mm — a 20 mm body plus the 6 mm slotted end section Body cross-section: 6.5 × 5 mm; the last 6 mm at the slotted end is 7.5 × 5 mm (1 mm shoulder each side) End slot: 1.5 mm wide, 6 mm deep along the length, through the full 5 mm height, centred Side steps: 1 mm deep on both flat side faces, constant depth, running full height, starting 6 mm from the end and ending 1 mm before the end face Far-end vertical corners and top edge: 2.4 mm radius, rounded Slotted-end outer corners: 0.9 mm radius; side steps and notch corners sharp Prints as one piece, no supports needed for any of the features above Remix hooks Body length is the free dimension. The 20 mm is the span between the rounded end and the start of the slotted section — stretch or shorten it to set the gap, and nothing else about the part has to change. The 6 mm slotted section is the fixed end, so all the length adjustment happens at the plain end. The width step is the fit dial. The 6.5 mm body and the 7.5 mm slotted end are two independent numbers: match the narrow body to the channel it slides into and the wider end to whatever it shoulders against. Equalising them removes the shoulder entirely and gives a plain constant-width block. Where the step falls. The 7.5 mm section currently runs the last 6 mm, tied to the slot depth; move that boundary to change how much of the part is full width. Slot width is the tightest tolerance. At 1.5 mm it takes a thin rib, sheet-metal edge or card; resize it to suit whatever it has to straddle, and remember a printed slot usually needs a little clearance over the nominal thickness. Slot depth sets the character. At 6 mm it is a deep open channel relative to the 26 mm part; shorten it to a millimetre or two and it becomes a shallow locating register instead. Side step depth. At 1 mm the relief is shallow and forgiving; go deeper for a part that shoulders harder against a pocket wall, or take it to zero for plain flat sides. The 1 mm land before the end face is what forms the notch — widen or remove it to change how the part locks against a shoulder. The far-end radius is already near its ceiling. 2.4 mm is close to the limit on a 5 mm block, so going rounder means growing the height, not the radius. Drop it to 1.5 mm for a snugger square look, or zero for a sharp end. Slotted-end radius is the tight one. 0.9 mm is limited by the short 1 mm end tab; widening that land is the way to buy room for a rounder corner there. Shape of the relief. Swapping the flat step for a ramp, or cutting the corners instead of the flat faces, turns this into a lead-in wedge or a chamfered block. Through vs. blind. The slot cuts the full height, so it is visible from both the top and bottom faces; make it blind and you get a closed-bottom channel. Obvious pairings. A matching 1.5 mm rib or plate edge for the slot to register against, or a mirrored second block so the two slots face each other and trap a thin part between them.
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living room plinth
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