sink drain lever, G*b*rit

A small rectangular block, 26 mm overall, made of a 20 mm body and a 6 mm slotted end section. A narrow slot is cut into the 7.5 mm end face: 1.5 mm wide, running 6 mm into the length and through the full 5 mm height, so it reads as a thin open channel down that end. The slotted 6 mm keeps the full 7.5 mm width, while the rest of the body is narrowed to 6.5 mm, so a 1 mm shoulder sits on each side where the two sections meet.

On the two flat side faces — not on the long corners — a straight rectangular step is cut 1 mm deep over the full 5 mm height. It starts 6 mm in from the slotted end and stops 1 mm short of the end face, so the last millimetre keeps its full width and a small square notch is left at the end. There is no angle anywhere in this cut. The far end from the slot is rounded: both vertical corners and the top edge there carry a 2.4 mm radius, blending into one soft rounded end — about as much as a 5 mm tall block can take before the curve meets itself halfway. The outer corners at the slotted end carry a small 0.9 mm radius; the side steps and the notch itself stay sharp, and the remaining top and bottom edges stay square. It works as a spacer, shim or register that a thin rib or plate edge drops into, with the side step giving that end a shoulder to seat against.

Starting values

• Overall length: 26 mm — a 20 mm body plus the 6 mm slotted end section
• Body cross-section: 6.5 × 5 mm; the last 6 mm at the slotted end is 7.5 × 5 mm (1 mm shoulder each side)
• End slot: 1.5 mm wide, 6 mm deep along the length, through the full 5 mm height, centred
• Side steps: 1 mm deep on both flat side faces, constant depth, running full height, starting 6 mm from the end and ending 1 mm before the end face
• Far-end vertical corners and top edge: 2.4 mm radius, rounded
• Slotted-end outer corners: 0.9 mm radius; side steps and notch corners sharp
• Prints as one piece, no supports needed for any of the features above

Remix hooks

• Body length is the free dimension. The 20 mm is the span between the rounded end and the start of the slotted section — stretch or shorten it to set the gap, and nothing else about the part has to change. The 6 mm slotted section is the fixed end, so all the length adjustment happens at the plain end.
• The width step is the fit dial. The 6.5 mm body and the 7.5 mm slotted end are two independent numbers: match the narrow body to the channel it slides into and the wider end to whatever it shoulders against. Equalising them removes the shoulder entirely and gives a plain constant-width block.
• Where the step falls. The 7.5 mm section currently runs the last 6 mm, tied to the slot depth; move that boundary to change how much of the part is full width.
• Slot width is the tightest tolerance. At 1.5 mm it takes a thin rib, sheet-metal edge or card; resize it to suit whatever it has to straddle, and remember a printed slot usually needs a little clearance over the nominal thickness.
• Slot depth sets the character. At 6 mm it is a deep open channel relative to the 26 mm part; shorten it to a millimetre or two and it becomes a shallow locating register instead.
• Side step depth. At 1 mm the relief is shallow and forgiving; go deeper for a part that shoulders harder against a pocket wall, or take it to zero for plain flat sides. The 1 mm land before the end face is what forms the notch — widen or remove it to change how the part locks against a shoulder.
• The far-end radius is already near its ceiling. 2.4 mm is close to the limit on a 5 mm block, so going rounder means growing the height, not the radius. Drop it to 1.5 mm for a snugger square look, or zero for a sharp end.
• Slotted-end radius is the tight one. 0.9 mm is limited by the short 1 mm end tab; widening that land is the way to buy room for a rounder corner there.
• Shape of the relief. Swapping the flat step for a ramp, or cutting the corners instead of the flat faces, turns this into a lead-in wedge or a chamfered block.
• Through vs. blind. The slot cuts the full height, so it is visible from both the top and bottom faces; make it blind and you get a closed-bottom channel.
• Obvious pairings. A matching 1.5 mm rib or plate edge for the slot to register against, or a mirrored second block so the two slots face each other and trap a thin part between them.