Pegboard Utility Knife Holder

Oval Electrical Switch Housing with Slider

A pebble-shaped housing for a small electrical switch, built as two lengthwise half-ovals plus a separate sliding cover. The front and back halves split along the wire axis, and the seam runs through the middle of both 3 mm wire holes and the switch pocket. Lay the switch and wiring into one half, drop the sliding cover into the half-cut T-track, then close the other half over it like a clamshell. Four M3 screws pass through the back half and thread into M3 nuts seated in the front half from outside, so the seam clamps evenly and the two halves of the track stay aligned instead of catching the cover on a step. The housing is 54 × 27 mm in plan and 26.4 mm tall, with an 8 mm rounding on the bottom edge and 4.5 mm on the top so it reads as a pebble rather than a puck. Inside, the pocket is 15.9 × 11 × 20.2 mm — a 15.3 × 10.4 × 19.8 mm switch plus about 0.5 mm clearance per side. The sliding cover is 32 × 16.4 × 4 mm including its thumb tab and fills the full track width, travelling 14 mm. Its top is closed and trimmed to the housing's oval outline, so the outside reads as one continuous curved form; the 13.1 × 8.2 mm window is a blind recess on the underside with about 1 mm of skin above it. Slide the cover toward +X until the recess lines up with the opening to expose the switch, and back toward −X to close it. A small rectangular thumb tab, 3.6 mm along X and 8.2 mm across, sits at the cover's center and rises about 0.6 mm above the housing surface. Its top edges are rounded at 0.9 mm so it blends into the oval's curve, and its width matches the switch opening. Engraved marks 0.5 mm deep on the cover top indicate state within the exposed middle: "o" sits 4.2 mm on the +X side of the cover center and shows when closed; "-" sits 4.2 mm on the −X side and shows when open. Only one mark is visible at a time because the other slides under the roof. Both wire ports open into a 6 mm round seat, 6 mm long, ready for a wire holder of that size; the channels themselves stay at 3 mm. A roof spans the track from x = ±9 mm out to each end of the oval. It is part of the two housing halves and follows the oval's top curve, covering the track ends so no open slot shows there and closing the small triangular corner gaps. The cover runs under the roof, with its top about 0.2 mm below it; the middle section from x = −9 to +9 mm stays uncovered because the cover needs that clearance to move. The end stops are integrated into the two housing halves: each half carries its share of a stop at both ends of the track, and the stops fill the track's full cross-section, including the wide groove and neck, ending flush with the oval's outer surface. The cover is blocked at both ends of its travel and cannot slide out. To fit or remove the cover, open the halves as you would for the wires and switch. There are no separate loose stops left in the model. Fasteners and seam Four M3 screws, at x = ±17 mm and heights of 5 mm and 14 mm — solid body clear of the switch pocket and the wire channels. Use M3 × 18 mm; M3 × 20 mm also works, but its tip can poke through slightly. Back half (purple): 3.4 mm clearance holes through the wall, with 6.2 mm counterbores so the heads sit 6 mm in from the seam. Front half (blue): 3.4 mm screw holes run from the seam to a flat nut seat 9.8 mm out. The hex pockets are 6.5 mm across the corners and 4.2 mm deep for a standard M3 nut (5.5 mm across the flats). They open through the outer curved surface, so each nut drops in from outside and sits flush. The lower pockets are close to the bottom curve, so check that wall when you print. Print layout The three pieces are arranged side by side on the plate, not overlapping, so each can be exported on its own: Front Half (blue): 54 × 26.4 × 13.5 mm. The current plate keeps it split face up; with no pins on that face it can be flipped to sit split face down and print without supports. Back Half (purple): 54 × 26.4 × 13.5 mm, split face on the bed, so it needs no supports. Sliding Cover (orange): 32 × 16.4 × 4 mm, upright with its flat underside on the bed and the thumb tab on top. The fit has not been tested, so check the slide, the nut pockets and the screw alignment before a long print. Remix hooks Pocket — 15.9 × 11 × 20.2 mm. The first thing to re-cut for your own switch. Hold roughly 0.5 mm clearance per side: tighter grips it, looser lets it rattle. The 15.9 mm runs along X, so keep that orientation if the wires must stay in line with the cover. Split plane — along the wire axis. The seam runs through both 3 mm wire holes and the switch pocket. Moving it off-centre changes how the halves sit and where the wire seats land; keep the four screw holes aligned at x = ±17 mm, heights 5 mm and 14 mm. Screws and nuts — M3, 3.4 mm holes, 6.5 mm external hex pockets. Swap the external hex pockets for heat-set inserts or threaded bosses if you'd rather not handle loose nuts, or step down to M2.5 in the same bosses if 3 mm screws crowd the 27 mm width. Counterbore depth sets how far the heads sit in. Wire seats — 6 mm diameter × 6 mm long, feeding 3 mm channels. Resize these to match your actual wire holder, or turn them into a plain grommet relief if the wiring takes a different route. Sliding cover — 32 × 16.4 × 4 mm. It runs between the integrated stops and carries the blind 13.1 × 8.2 mm recess underneath. Lengthen or shorten the solid and recessed sections to change how far it travels before the switch is exposed; the current travel is 14 mm. Thumb tab — 3.6 × 8.2 mm, about 0.6 mm proud, with 0.9 mm rounded top edges. It must clear the roof ends at x = ±9 mm through the 14 mm travel. Changing its width, its rounding, or the roof span changes that clearance. Roof span — x = ±9 mm to the track ends. This sets how much of the track is covered and how much middle stays open. Raising or lowering the roof changes the cover's clearance and how flush its top sits; widening the exposed middle makes both marks visible at once. Integrated stops. They are cut into both halves at the ends of the track and fill the track cross-section, so changing the cover length means moving them rather than swapping a separate part. Shorten the cover instead if you want to keep the current stop positions. Oval body — 54 × 27 mm in plan, 26.4 mm tall. Stretch the oval along X to fit a deeper switch, and adjust the top and bottom edge roundings to change how soft or blocky it looks. Keep the wire-hole centreline in mind when moving the ends. Layout. Each piece keeps its own print orientation, so you can drop one piece or re-arrange the plate without touching the others. Variants worth trying Replace the "-" and "o" engravings with "OPEN" and "LOCK" lettering, or run a single indicator line across the cover. Add short alignment pegs beside the screws, or a tongue-and-groove along the seam, if the halves don't register well before tightening. Flatten one long side into a mounting tab with a screw hole so the housing can be fixed down. Print the cover in a contrasting colour to one or both halves so the split line and track read clearly.

1 day agoRemix →

Elliptical Pedal Insert 48x40 Offset Hole

What it's for Central reinforcement insert for an elliptical trainer pedal, bonded into the damaged opening. Flat top, ribbed underside. Dimensions Base: 48 × 40 × 7 mm, rounded corners Through-hole: 10 mm, centered at 24 mm along the length and 4 mm toward the top edge from the width center 18 mm boss around the hole, 5 ribs to a 3 mm frame Remix ideas Change the hole offset for a different pedal Add or remove ribs Thicken the frame for heavier loads

3 days agoRemix →

Кольцо 37/33 мм, толщина 5 мм

Простое круглое кольцо-втулка с ровными торцами. What it's for Прокладка, проставка, втулка или заготовка для переходного кольца. Печатается лёжа, без поддержек. Dimensions Наружный диаметр: 37 мм Внутренний диаметр: 33 мм Толщина стенки: 2 мм Высота (толщина кольца): 5 мм Remix ideas Добавить фаски на кромках. Увеличить внутренний диаметр на 0,2–0,4 мм для посадки с зазором. Добавить выступ или паз для фиксации.

5 days agoRemix →

sink drain lever, Gbrit

A small rectangular block, 26 mm overall, made of a 20 mm body and a 6 mm slotted end section. A narrow slot is cut into the 7.5 mm end face: 1.5 mm wide, running 6 mm into the length and through the full 5 mm height, so it reads as a thin open channel down that end. The slotted 6 mm keeps the full 7.5 mm width, while the rest of the body is narrowed to 6.5 mm, so a 1 mm shoulder sits on each side where the two sections meet. On the two flat side faces — not on the long corners — a straight rectangular step is cut 1 mm deep over the full 5 mm height. It starts 6 mm in from the slotted end and stops 1 mm short of the end face, so the last millimetre keeps its full width and a small square notch is left at the end. There is no angle anywhere in this cut. The far end from the slot is rounded: both vertical corners and the top edge there carry a 2.4 mm radius, blending into one soft rounded end — about as much as a 5 mm tall block can take before the curve meets itself halfway. The outer corners at the slotted end carry a small 0.9 mm radius; the side steps and the notch itself stay sharp, and the remaining top and bottom edges stay square. It works as a spacer, shim or register that a thin rib or plate edge drops into, with the side step giving that end a shoulder to seat against. Starting values Overall length: 26 mm — a 20 mm body plus the 6 mm slotted end section Body cross-section: 6.5 × 5 mm; the last 6 mm at the slotted end is 7.5 × 5 mm (1 mm shoulder each side) End slot: 1.5 mm wide, 6 mm deep along the length, through the full 5 mm height, centred Side steps: 1 mm deep on both flat side faces, constant depth, running full height, starting 6 mm from the end and ending 1 mm before the end face Far-end vertical corners and top edge: 2.4 mm radius, rounded Slotted-end outer corners: 0.9 mm radius; side steps and notch corners sharp Prints as one piece, no supports needed for any of the features above Remix hooks Body length is the free dimension. The 20 mm is the span between the rounded end and the start of the slotted section — stretch or shorten it to set the gap, and nothing else about the part has to change. The 6 mm slotted section is the fixed end, so all the length adjustment happens at the plain end. The width step is the fit dial. The 6.5 mm body and the 7.5 mm slotted end are two independent numbers: match the narrow body to the channel it slides into and the wider end to whatever it shoulders against. Equalising them removes the shoulder entirely and gives a plain constant-width block. Where the step falls. The 7.5 mm section currently runs the last 6 mm, tied to the slot depth; move that boundary to change how much of the part is full width. Slot width is the tightest tolerance. At 1.5 mm it takes a thin rib, sheet-metal edge or card; resize it to suit whatever it has to straddle, and remember a printed slot usually needs a little clearance over the nominal thickness. Slot depth sets the character. At 6 mm it is a deep open channel relative to the 26 mm part; shorten it to a millimetre or two and it becomes a shallow locating register instead. Side step depth. At 1 mm the relief is shallow and forgiving; go deeper for a part that shoulders harder against a pocket wall, or take it to zero for plain flat sides. The 1 mm land before the end face is what forms the notch — widen or remove it to change how the part locks against a shoulder. The far-end radius is already near its ceiling. 2.4 mm is close to the limit on a 5 mm block, so going rounder means growing the height, not the radius. Drop it to 1.5 mm for a snugger square look, or zero for a sharp end. Slotted-end radius is the tight one. 0.9 mm is limited by the short 1 mm end tab; widening that land is the way to buy room for a rounder corner there. Shape of the relief. Swapping the flat step for a ramp, or cutting the corners instead of the flat faces, turns this into a lead-in wedge or a chamfered block. Through vs. blind. The slot cuts the full height, so it is visible from both the top and bottom faces; make it blind and you get a closed-bottom channel. Obvious pairings. A matching 1.5 mm rib or plate edge for the slot to register against, or a mirrored second block so the two slots face each other and trap a thin part between them.

5 days agoRemix →

90 Degree Corner Clamping Jig

An L-shaped corner jig that holds two boards at a true 90 degrees while glue sets. It is made for picture frame joints, where a loose corner tends to drift into a parallelogram. Each arm has a channel that cradles a board up to 20 mm thick, and the two channels meet at a square inside corner. The 12 mm walls hold their shape under clamp pressure, and the outer edges are chamfered for a clean, easy-to-handle part. Fits stock up to 20 mm thick Square 90 degree inside corner 90 mm arms, 30 mm tall Clamp slots on each arm for squeezing the boards into the corner Flat base prints without supports Print it in PETG or PLA with several perimeters for stiffness. Keep glue off the channel walls, or line them with tape so the jig does not bond to the work.

5 days agoRemix →

living room plinth

Two 100 × 100 mm L-sections, 10 mm leg width and 10 mm thick, laid flat and nested together to save print-bed space. Fit and layout One piece sits normally; the other is flipped onto its back and turned so the two interlock with a 1 mm gap. Combined footprint: about 111 × 111 mm. Check before printing: the 1 mm gap needs a bed that prints cleanly at that spacing; widen it if the pieces fuse. Not a fit for beds under 115 mm square.

6 days agoRemix →

Pegboard Utility Knife Holder

Form & Fit

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Oval Electrical Switch Housing with Slider