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3D-printable home fixtures & hardware

Brackets, cabinet pulls, knobs, doorstops, racks and mounts built to real measurements. Browse what makers built, or describe the exact fixture you need and Printy makes it.

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Garden-Plumbing Workhorse: BSP to 3/4 Hose Barb

Garden-Plumbing Workhorse: BSP to 3/4 Hose Barb

A straight-line adapter that bridges a 1-1/4" BSP female threaded socket to a 3/4" hose barb, with a tapered shoulder carrying the eye from the wide threaded end down to the narrow ridged nozzle. It reads like a piece of honest utility hardware: a ring of 11 TPI thread at one end, three crisp ridges at the other, and a 15 mm bore running clean through a compact 55 mm body — short enough to tuck into tight pump and tap arrangements without a loop of hose fighting for room. The barb's ridges ramp up gently from the tip and widen toward the body, then drop off in a sharp step — the hose slides on without a fight, and the step keeps it from backing off again. Design notes: 1-1/4" BSP female socket, 11 TPI, 41.91 mm major diameter, 18 mm deep Tapered transition from the socket down to the barb 19 mm barb with three retention ridges, 7 mm tall and spaced 8 mm apart, narrow at the tip and widening to a step at the body side, for 3/4" hose 15 mm bore through the full length; 55 mm overall Prints as a single piece, sitting upright at roughly 50 × 50 mm on the plate Fit and sealing: The thread is modelled at nominal size with no added clearance, so a first test fit against the male fitting is worth doing — if it binds, opening it out by 0.2–0.4 mm is the easy fix. For a watertight joint, wrap the thread with PTFE tape or seat a flat washer against the socket floor. The shortened barb leaves less hose length to grip; a hose clip just behind the final ridge makes up for it. Pairs naturally with garden hose, pump outlets and tank fittings.

11 days agoRemix →
100 mm OD Flange, 45 mm Bore

100 mm OD Flange, 45 mm Bore

A flat round flange, 100 mm outside diameter and 13 mm thick, with a 45 mm bore straight through the middle. Four 5 mm holes sit on a 72 mm bolt circle at 45°, 135°, 225° and 315°, countersunk from the top face and 10.5 mm across at the rim. The outer edges carry a 1 mm chamfer, so there is no sharp rim to catch on. What it fits Bore: 45 mm nominal — measure the shaft, tube or spigot it goes over with calipers first. A printed 45 mm bore comes out undersized on most machines, so plan on reaming or drilling to size. Bolt pattern: four holes on a 72 mm bolt circle, at the diagonal positions rather than at 12/3/6/9 o'clock. Confirm the orientation of the mating part before drilling anything. Fasteners: 5 mm clearance with a countersink 10.5 mm across, sized around M5 flat-head screws so the heads sit at or just below the top face. Longer screws will not sit flush, and the 13 mm body sets how much thread you have to play with. Face: the 100 mm diameter leaves roughly 27.5 mm of material between the bore edge and the outer edge. What it does not have No hub and no raised face — it is a plain flat disc, so it will not self-centre on a register. No thread, no taper and no keyway in the bore. No O-ring groove or gasket recess; sealing has to come from the mating faces or a separate gasket. No second bolt pattern — if the part you are mating to has six or eight holes, or a circle other than 72 mm, this will not bolt on. Before you print Measure the bolt circle and the hole positions on the part you are mating to, centre-to-centre, and check that the four-hole diagonal layout matches. Also check that 13 mm of thickness clears whatever sits behind the flange, since the countersinks eat into the top face and leave less material under the heads than a plain 13 mm plate would suggest. Prints flat on the bottom face with no supports; the chamfer and the bore both come out clean laid down that way, and the countersinks form on the top surface without bridging.

11 days agoRemix →
Four-Piece Baseboard Register Hood and Duct Kit

Four-Piece Baseboard Register Hood and Duct Kit

This is a four-part replacement hood and duct kit for a baseboard HVAC register: two hood halves, a straight extension tunnel, and a 90-degree side-turn end cap. When the hood halves are joined, the hood measures 450 mm wide along the wall, 80 mm deep, and 115 mm tall. The rear and bottom are open to take air from the baseboard void; the sloped front funnels that air into a centered horizontal nozzle at the lower front edge. The nozzle is 150 mm wide, 40 mm tall, and projects 20 mm forward. All four parts print separately and slide together with dovetail joints. The extension and cap sit on the plate beside the hood halves, not pre-assembled. The sliding joints use 0.3 mm clearance per side, and the chunk and cap sockets have small friction bumps. For an air-tight run, add foam gasket tape or silicone along the socket edges; test-print one joint before reducing clearance below 0.3 mm. Hood Specifications Printed hood halves: HoodLeft and HoodRight, joined by a central vertical sliding dovetail with 0.3 mm clearance. They slide together vertically along the seam. Shell: nominal 3 mm walls, with a 24 mm wide band across the center of the sloped roof and front wall thickened to 8 mm so the dovetail cuts through solid material. Joined hood footprint: 450 × 80 × 115 mm. Rear wall side and bottom floor are open. Outlet nozzle: 150 × 40 mm, projecting 20 mm forward. Nozzle side tracks: male dovetail on each outer side, 6 mm wide at the root and 12 mm at the tip, 3 mm deep, with 45° flanks. The wider printed hood half measures about 228 mm across, so check print-bed width. Extension Chunk Extension_Chunk is a straight hollow tunnel, 150 × 40 mm outside and 200 mm long, with 3 mm walls. Inlet socket: the first 20 mm has no top or bottom plate so it drops down over the nozzle; its side walls carry dovetail slots held 0.3 mm off the nozzle tracks. Small friction bumps sit at the top and bottom, two per side, to resist lifting off; they add friction rather than a positive click or seal. Outlet tracks: the same male dovetail as the hood nozzle, set 10 mm back from the end so the next chunk's socket fits over them. The socket end measures about 162.6 mm outside to house those slots. The tunnel has a bottom floor; it keeps the channel stiff and the sliding joints aligned over uneven flooring. Thinning that floor to 2 mm saves plastic; removing it will leak along the bottom. Chain as many chunks as the run needs; each one slides on vertically and can be swapped or added without tools. The chunk prints as a separate part alongside the hood halves, not pre-assembled. Side Turn Cap SideTurnCap is a 90-degree flat elbow end cap, nominal 150 mm wide, 40 mm tall, and 160 mm long, with 3 mm walls. Inlet: the same 20 mm dovetail socket as the chunk, open top and bottom, sliding vertically onto the chunk's outlet tracks with 0.3 mm clearance. Small friction bumps sit at the top and bottom, two per side, to resist lifting off; they add friction rather than a positive click or seal. Front end: closed off completely. Vent: one entire side wall is open as the exhaust; the top and bottom plates stay intact. Vanes: three internal quarter-circle turning vanes, 2 mm thick, with radii of 36, 72, and 108 mm, running the full interior height to turn airflow 90° out the side opening. The inlet gaps are an even 36 mm, including the gap to the far wall. Flip: the top and bottom are identical and symmetrical, so turning the cap upside down directs air out the other side. The socket end measures about 162.6 mm across; the cap prints as a separate part beyond the chunk on the plate.

12 days agoRemix →
Veranda End Bay with Leaf Outline Infill

Veranda End Bay with Leaf Outline Infill

A rectangular end frame for a veranda run, built from two uprights, a top beam and a lower rail, with a decorative leaf panel set into the opening. The infill is a collage of large overlapping leaves drawn as open outlines. Each leaf has a centre rib and four angled side veins, so the panel reads as fine, see-through line work rather than a solid fill. Leaves sit at random angles and positions and are clipped flush at the frame, where edge leaves run into the posts, top beam and bottom rail. A leaf sits one third of the way in from the left post, just under halfway up the panel. Frame and infill print as one piece. What it's for Closes the end of a veranda run with a decorative open screen instead of a solid infill. The overlapping leaf outlines fill the panel with line work while leaving gaps open, so sightlines and airflow stay partly clear. The scattered leaf layout gives an organic, uneven look rather than a repeating geometric pattern. The layout is fixed, so the pattern is the same from print to print. Dimensions Overall frame: 120 × 150 mm, 12 mm deep. Infill opening: about 96 × 123 mm, 6.5 mm deep; the leaf collage fills it edge to edge. Leaves: roughly 50–105 mm long and 26–46 mm wide, with a 1.2 mm outline, a 1 mm centre rib and four side veins at 0.8 mm. Frame and infill print as one piece; no assembly required. Print notes Lay the frame flat on the plate and print it as a single piece. The leaf outlines, ribs and veins are thin line work; slow the outer walls if the printer tends to string across the gaps. Because the leaves are placed at random, a leaf near the edge may be held only by its neighbours rather than by the frame. Check the perimeter first when cleaning up the print. Remix ideas Change the frame proportions to suit a different veranda or porch opening. Reuse the leaf collage alone as a decorative screen or window insert. Simplify the leaf outlines for a bolder, less detailed screen. Swap the leaf shape for a different botanical outline while keeping the scattered layout.

15 days agoRemix →

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3D-Printable Brackets, Knobs & Home Hardware — STL | Printytron